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Soap bubble show solution

What is the solution made of? His expense. Features of soap films. Ready-made solutions. Recipes for Bubble Show Solutions

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It's hard to argue with the fact that one of the most important components in the bubble show is a soap solution. You can make a show without it, but you can't make a bubble show. And, of course, each master is working on his own solution: choosing a concentrate or testing formulas, or maybe doing both.

For a long time, I have been preparing the solution with my own hands from practical improvised means. I know a lot of formulas, I've tested each one, experimented with proportions. The results were different.

I will say right away that I use Arista concentrate.
It's been 7 years.And nothing else.
I'll tell you about it at the end of the article.

What is the composition for soap bubbles made of?

Any bubble show solution will be based on soap and water itself, followed by polymers and excipients.: such as glycerin, baking soda, baking powder, citric acid and chlorhexidine, and so on ad infinitum.

About soap

99% of the prescription solutions use Procter dishwashing detergents. & Gamble. In Russia it is Fairy and Myth, in other countries it is Dawn, Joy, Yes. They are very similar in composition, and the results are very similar. The only thing I would like to note is that the content of surfactants in these products can be different. Moreover, funds with the same name can be different. Please note that products manufactured in Russia most often have the following percentage of surfactants: 5-15% anionic surfactants and <5% nonionic. Almost all Russian recipes are based on this percentage, if your bottle has a different percentage written on it: 15-30 and < 15, then you need to add funds 2 times less. If you use a formulation from foreign colleagues, it is better to specify the percentage of surfactants in their products. By the way, on my YouTube channel you can find an interesting video comparing detergents in show solutions.

Polymers

Polymers will be equally important components for solutions. Most often, various kinds of lubricants are used in "homemade" formulations: powder and helium. They allow the soap film to be more elastic. Gums and cellulose esters are also actively used. There is a huge field for creativity and experimentation. I've heard that there are circus performers who use egg white as a polymer.

The most common household polymers are: CMC wallpaper glue, J-Lube lubricant, gel lubricants of the Contex type (without silicone), food-grade guar gum.

The polymers related to raw materials are already carboxyethyl cellulose (CMC), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), guar gum, xanthan gum, polyethylene oxide (PEO) and others.

Water

Of course, water is used. For different solutions, water can play both a very significant role and practically have no effect on the formula. It depends on the soap composition of your solution. It is the soap base in the first place and polymers in the second.

It is always better to use the same water for experiments. This allows you to be sure of its quality, the content of salts and impurities.

As for distilled water, I almost never used it. And I've been using tap water for the last 12 years.

But it is its purity that is very important - I will tell you about this in the section of the article "Enemies of soap bubbles"

Auxiliary ingredients

The most popular of these is glycerin. In fact, it only slightly helps to make the solution suitable for performances. And it can be excluded from many solutions. But I can fairly point out that with its help, you can easily and without lumps dissolve some particularly clumping polymers in water, for example, J-LUBE. Also, if we are talking about bubbles for children, yes, it prolongs the "life" of bubbles, in the sense that bubbles do not burst longer and can become more resistant to bursting.

Next: baking soda, baking powder and citric acid. They help to even out the PH of your solution. Also, in some recipes it is recommended to mix an acidified solution and a fresh one - this is just for this.
A solution created using the same recipe may behave differently.
In fact, a more alkaline solution lives longer, has a thicker wall, bursts with splashes, and does not "blow through" well when blown, but the bubble lives longer. A more "acidic" solution has a thinner film, turns golden quickly, bursts with a film, is easily blown in, and is generally more elastic, but the life of such a bubble is short.
Therefore, the truth is in the middle. PH can also be important when introducing certain polymers into the composition.Some artists use PH meters to understand this indicator. There was a time when I used it too.

Some formulations also contain additives that prolong the "life of bubbles", such as alcohols, chlorhexidine, aspirin, and calcium chloride. These are usually certain substances used to fight bacteria and fungi.

Recipes for bubble show solution

You can buy a recipe for the solution from the masters of the genre, you can try to come up with it yourself, you can search the Internet. You can search for something worthwhile on Russian-language sites, but for those who really want to understand the topic, I recommend this English-language resource. https://soapbubble .fandom.com/wiki/Soap_Bubble_Wiki . This is the best thing I've seen about bubbles in the public domain, and there are recipes (almost all existing in the world) and other equally useful information.
But I want to warn you right away that this is not a question of a "free recipe." You will spend a lot of time, effort and money on ingredients and experiments.
I should immediately note that working with a recipe is always difficult. It requires adaptation and constant monitoring.

A few notes that may be important before your experiments:
Fairy is constantly different now. Testing detergent and bubble base are still different. Moreover, indicators that are not important for washing dishes, but are important for inflating bubbles, may vary from the supplier of raw materials and the batch.

J-Lube tends to degrade. And the date of its production, the date of production of raw materials, and the method of storage can play a huge role.

Some polymers require dissolution in an acidic or alkaline environment. This must be taken into account. The temperature of the water during dissolution, the method of dissolution, and other nuances may also be important.

I want to warn you against purchasing recipes from someone with Avito. You need a mentor. A person who will help if necessary.
If you want to save money, do not understand the topic, find a working scheme and do not immerse yourself in the topic - concentrate is the best thing that can be. It's true.

I'll note right away that I no longer sell the recipe for the solution and do not consult on the solution. It's very time-consuming. I've completely switched to concentrate. It's more convenient for me. The production is factory-made and this allows you to achieve stable results. But despite this, I constantly test every batch. And sometimes the bubbles surprise me.

If you are looking for a recipe for a bubble show solution, then I will tell you.
Here I will list a few simple formulations. I must say right away that I will not go into the global details of the cooking method. If you need guarantees, either a mentor or a concentrate.

But it's important!!!
The ingredients are weighed only on a scale with a unit
measuring 0.1 g - kitchen is not suitable
Liquids are measured in ml (measuring cup)
Powders in grams Each of these compounds must be infused.

The water is warm
The formula of solution 1
At the output, we get 6 liters of the finished solution.:
Jay Oak 2.6
Glycerin 250
Glue 13.7
Fairy 750
Water 5L
Mix the jay in a small amount of glycerin, dissolve the glue in a small amount of water, then combine all the ingredients. Faerie is added last. Let it brew
Formula 2
10 grams of guar gum
A little glycerin (to dissolve the gum)
500 faeries
4.5 water.
A pack of baking powder
Dissolve the gum in glycerin, add the gum to the water, then the baking powder, then the fairy mix. Let it brew

Formula 3
4.5 liters of water
5 g J-lube
500 ml fairy
Jay is dissolved in a small amount of water - I would still take a little glycerin. Then mix all the ingredients. We insist

Formula 4
4.5 liters of waterFairy
500 ml
Glycerin 150 ml
Kontex lubricant 300 ml
The lubricant is mixed with glycerin and fairy.
Add water. We insist

Bubble show concentrates

In fact, there are only two concentrate options.:
1) formulations containing soap base, polymer and additives
2) formulations containing polymers and additives

In the first case, you add only water, in the second, water and dishwashing detergent (Fairy and analogues that I wrote about at the beginning of the article)

I advocate the first format. The reason is obvious - all the ingredients are matched to each other. Testing by the manufacturer is underway for the full complement.

In the second case, testing can take place on one batch of detergent, and you will work on another. This is also possible, but still not as reliable. Also, often the required amount of preservatives is not added there and the solution quickly turns sour.

I will not list the concentrate manufacturers. I'll just say that this case is very troublesome. And I will also say that sometimes Fairy is still present in the composition of "just add water". And that's the smell at least.
We actually test every batch of concentrate. And I'm testing it personally. Constantly and thoroughly. And almost every new batch of raw materials requires additional improvements to the formula.

I know that you can experiment with concentrates, too. Add a little more/less polymer or soap. Add additional ingredients - but manufacturers always strive for versatility - which makes the artist's life easier.

How to store the solution

Concentrate solution

If we talk about our Arista concentrate, the solution on it does not turn sour and does not change its original properties for a long time, even after use.
I assume that Arista can be stored in a diluted form for several months. But why take so long? That's the question.
But the nuances that need to be taken into account are the ingress of chemicals into the solution that disrupt its performance, I will write about this later in this article, in the section "enemies of the solution". And a lot of garbage.
Our concentrate can be stored simply in a room, but avoid direct sunlight and heat above 30 degrees.
The timing may also be affected by the fact that you jump from one train to another. And you don't wash your banking details during the transfer. For example, you use a solution on faerie that deteriorates very quickly. Fungi and bacteria live on your rackets - then they will get into the composition on my concentrate. And the amount of canned food may not be able to cope with such a volume.

If we talk about other concentrates, they often require storage in the refrigerator - the reason is that there is an insufficient amount of preservatives in the diluted composition - Arista contains it in both soap base and polymer

The solution is prepared according to the recipe

Many artists work on homemade formulas. Almost any self-made solution based on household products is susceptible to fermentation and souring after dirt gets into it: flakes of your skin, dust from props, leaves, hair. The fact is that these solutions do not contain enough preservatives and other auxiliary substances to maintain the original properties of the solution, so a lot of the product deteriorates and is disposed of.
The low amount of preservative and often the lack of PH equalization are also to blame here.

To prolong the "life" of such a solution, I recommend:

Cook it in a clean container. Disposable or poured with boiling water.
Filter after working outside - if there is visible dirt.
Use a separate container for interacting with children and dispose of this part of the solution afterwards. This way we will avoid unnecessary impurities.
Store in the refrigerator, but take it out in advance. The cold solution does not work
Do not mix the "sour" and "fresh" solution. Fungi and bacteria breed very quickly

Solution safety

When it comes to safety in standard use, almost all homemade versions are relatively safe. The explanation for this is very simple — they are made from household ingredients. And household chemicals are relatively safe, unless you drink or eat them.

But in any case, a highly concentrated soap solution degreases the skin and any composition that can inflate persistent bubbles will dry the skin of the hands. The presence of polymers in the formulations aggravates the situation, because it makes it difficult to wash off surfactants from the skin. Therefore, artists should take good care of her. Track even small redness and immediately stop it.

Hands should be thoroughly washed before performing and cleaned of the solution after working with it. It is better to use nitrile gloves during rehearsals. And after work, thoroughly moisturize and nourish the skin of your hands. It is also possible to use petroleum jelly or a special cream for artists to create a barrier between the skin and the solution during work.
Some artists generally prefer to work only with gloves if the skin of their hands is very sensitive.
After the performance and rehearsals, we must apply hand cream to restore the protective layer on the skin of the hands.

I use our skin care cream. It does not contain silicones, so I feel free to apply it on my hands.

As for breathing, in my opinion, flavorings do not have the best effect on the respiratory system. But I have never seen or heard of any vivid allergic reactions from this side either among the artists or the audience.As for fumes, the suspended matter in the air from bubbles is definitely not more than when washing hair or washing dishes.My concentrate has no smell, so I'm calm. The conclusion is that the bubble show solution is completely safe for viewers.

If we talk about concentrates, they are just as safe as factory soap bubbles for children.
Most concentrates are certified, and ours is no exception.But they also dry the skin of the hands, because they also contain a large amount of surfactants, polymers and preservatives.
But many concentrates containing surfactants (soap) have an undoubted advantage — the absence of flavors and dyes in the composition.And Arista, of course, is one of them.

Whatever solution you use, I advise you not to let children inflate bubbles with their hands. Although it is also relatively safe. There are special devices for this. Children's skin is very delicate. Also, make sure that children do not drink soap solution or foam.

Enemies of solutions

If we talk about the most powerful enemies of soap bubbles, these are silicones, dryness and air pollution, high temperatures and strong wind currents.

I want to start with chemistry. Silicones are found in many products. These are creams, lipsticks, air fresheners, perfumes, and many other products. Silicones allow for a better distribution of any substance over the surface. A foundation with them will better align the skin, and the aerosol will be better distributed in the air. But silicone bursts bubbles into small droplets. And the bubbles seem to explode in the air before they appear. Silicone can be sprayed in the air with any aerosol, so it is important to avoid using them. I also advise against using any perfume (except time-tested ones). Be careful with new cosmetics and don't let anyone near your solution! If you know that the solution needs to be in contact with the audience (they will splash in it), then let it be a separate container.

Dry and "dusty" air can also negatively affect the soap film. The clean autumn air after the rain is perfect! In my experience, I can say that the best bubbles inflate after rain, at a temperature of +10 - +15 , with a slight wind. This is an ideal option. But you can strive for similar indicators: ventilate the room, cool it before work, and humidify the air in any possible way. By the way, I want to note that air conditioners and heaters dry the air very much — keep this in mind. Sometimes airing is better than using an air conditioner. But if it's +40 outside, then air conditioning is necessary! But then you need to humidify (for example, with a steam generator).Ideal indicator: humidity 60-70%, temperature 15-20 degrees

It is not always necessary to turn off the air conditioner during a performance. The main thing is not to stand directly under the direct flow of air. And choosing between stuffiness and a light draft, I will choose a draft, at least somehow I can adjust to it.

The most common mistakes in working with solutions

If all the storage rules are followed, then the most common mistake is not moistened edges of equipment or leather. The soap film slides along the edge of the table, tray, or hand and comes into contact with the dry part, and the bubble is gone. It is important to moisten everything that the film may encounter on its way.

if it seems to you that your hands are wet, but you did not additionally moisten them before picking up the bubble, it seems to you.

I mean the following: you wet your hands, then you pick up the props - that's it - you need to wet your hands again

Another thing is the temperature of the liquid. The ideal option is when the temperature of the solution corresponds to the environment. A solution that is too cold or too hot will always work worse. And the greater the contrast between the room temperature and the temperature of the solution, the worse the result will be. For example, a solution created from Arista thickens and becomes pearlescent when excessively cooled. The solution cannot be used in this form. It is necessary to warm it up. This can be done as follows: pour hot water into a bucket and put a canister of solution in it. Add boiling water as it cools. Soon, the solution will become transparent and will be ready for use.

One more nuance. After preparing a new solution, the canister must be swung and stirred before use. If this is not done, many solutions delaminate and the solution is more liquid in the upper layer. Accordingly, the proportion is violated and the solution works worse.

I will write about the tricks and the technique of their execution in a subsequent article. There are a lot of nuances.

Why do I choose concentrate

For many years I have been working on homemade solutions. They were different compositions. We lived with the last one for 5 years. But with the advent of Arista, I exhaled.

The result has become more stable. Making a mistake in cooking is much more difficult.
It became much faster to prepare the solution.
The concentrate does not deteriorate in its diluted form for a very long time. I don't have to pour endless amounts of soap down the toilet.
It is easy to control the remaining concentrate. No need to run for ingredients in different places.
The bubbles are bright, stringy, and tenacious.
There is no smell.
There is a certificate.

Arista concentrate for soap bubble show.

Arista soap base is a fairy substitute. The recipe was created specifically for the bubble show. it has no smell or color. The preservatives contained in it significantly prolong the life of the solution.
Arista polymer is a complex of polymers for creating a high-quality solution. It is easily soluble in water. It does not require mixing with mixers. and blenders.
The cost of a liter of ready-made solution for Arista is 95 rubles
For dilution, only
5 liters of water is needed from a solution of 0.5 bottles of soap base and one sachet of polymer.

You can purchase a set at once - it's more convenient and cheaper.

Arista mortar kit

Soap base, if you prepare the solution according to your own formula or using a concentrate from another manufacturer.

Arista soap base 750 ml.

Polymer separately, if you still prefer Fairy

Arista polimer